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Commercial Pest Control FREE QUOTE

RED BACK SPIDERS 90% of Warehouses will have red back spider issues these can become a workcover nightmare as well as a danger to your staff. A free inspection may save your company grief. As summer approaches cockroaches in offices and warehouses may be an issue have a FREE inspection now its too late when you become aware there is a infestation please call us on 1300 367 883.



Cockroach & Rodent Problems

One of our technicians was asked to erradicate a bad infestation of german cockroaches from a Buddhist centre that also has restaurant and commercial kitchen. The cockroaches were easy to manage as we only use the best preparations like goliath cockroach gel. The customers were very happy with the prompt service.



Bird Problems & Flying Insects

With spring upon us different bird species and flying insects may start infesting your premises. To avoid infestation of bird mites proof any entry points now.At On Site we will inspect advise and quote absolutly FREE call on 1300 367 883 or email [email protected]



:: Services & Pests



Regular maintenance An important part of integrated pest management is the provision of non chemical improvements or pest prevention.

In many situations efficient pest prevention can be provided by the exclusion of the pests potential to access an area. This helps to limit the use of chemical control and can often be a long term solution in some cases.

Our professional staff can provide these services as necessary. Requirements vary depending on site, situation and pest type that is a problem. eg. cockroach, rodent, possums, feral birds or stored product pests.

The need for these measures are often revealed by technicians reports during a service visit or pest control/hygiene audits or surveys

This pest is prevalent in many countries throughout the world and has survived virtually unchanged for millions of years of evolution.





Cockroaches

There are 6 main species of cockroach experienced throughout commercial and food processing facilities within Australia. These being , American, German, Australian, Oriental, Smokey Brown, and brown Banded cockroaches.

They are omnivorous and can live on small quantities of anything. Their habit of regurgitating the contents of their crops onto the surfaces of which they transverse is responsible for contaminating surfaces with a whole range of bacteria including salmonella.

Cockroaches are a much greater threat to the health of staff and clients in commercial and food processing facilities than either rats or mice.

Financially, their musky odour produced by large numbers of cockroaches may taint sensitive foods, such as fats and various raw material lines. Vomit and faecal marks on packaged goods, or the cartons they are in, render them unusable.

Control methods:
 

  • Sealing of cockroach harbourage areas
  • Improving housekeeping and sanitation levels within the site. 
  • The use of Pheromone traps and baits. 
  • The judicial use of pesticides in the form of liquids, gels,dusts and gasses. 
  • The instigation of inspection and monitoring programs throughout the site to provide early detection of infestations.





Rats and Mice

Rats and mice are the largest of the pests you will probably experience in commercial/office facilities and are generally the ones that do the most damage.

For example: the world loses 10% of its foodstuffs through the activities of rats and mice.

Because their large incisor teeth constantly grow, there is a need to keep them at a manageable length, so they must constantly chew on hard materials such as wood, concrete,electrical wiring, water pipes, computer cables,fabrics etc, to stay alive.

The consequence of this constant gnawing can cause water pipes to leak, electrical short circuits, computer failures and damage to packaging especially packaged food.

Rat or mouse activity in food storage, commercial storage or canteen/tearoom areas inevitably leads to contamination by way of constant urination or by way of excreta as they transverse over varying surfaces.

In addition to the damage rodents cause to storage they are also responsible for food bourne diseases such as salmonella.

Control Methods:

Depending on the extent of the infestation and the species of rodent that is infesting a site control methods are as follows:

  • Proofing measures to prevent entry-access sanitation and hygiene practices at the site
  • Use of mechanical traps and or glueboards. 
  • Appropriate baiting programmes. 
  • Monitoring programmes throughout the site to provide early rodent detection.




Ants

Ants generally become a problem in houses and other buildings when their nests have become disturbed after rain, or conversely, during dry weather to look for water. Poor household hygiene and pet?s bowls also draw them indoors. Outside conditions such as sandy areas, pavers and garden pots also are favourable conditions for ants.

PEST CONTROL: A thorough inspection is required before any treatment is carried out. As firstly the client if they have noticed where the ants seem to be coming in and if they have noticed any nests outside. Look for all entry points in cracks and crevices in and around the kitchen, bathroom and laundry areas. Outside look under window sills, doorways, under pot plants, cracks in the driveway, around trees, pavers and garbage bins. Look for nests in the garden, under the subfloor, near fences and major colonies may be found under insulation batts in the roof void and in wall cavities.

Initially treat all cracks and crevices and entry points using the cockroach puffer, remembering to dust lightly and thoroughly. A heavy dusting will only be unsightly as it will be side-tracked by the ants. Outside try to track the ants back to their nests and flood with Deltamethrin or Bifenthrin to run-off. Fan spray paved areas lightly and lift up and treat under pot plants. Pay attention to cracks in concrete and under paths. Advise the client to move garbage bins and pets? bowls well away from the house.

Call On Site Pest Control on 9788 6334 or email us [email protected]



Bed-bugs

Bed-bugs are usually found in unhygienic conditions inside bedrooms as their name implies. They have a flattened appearance before a blood feed and are about five millimetres long with the look of a rather wide flea, reddish brown in colour. They hide under the buttons and in creases of old mattresses, behind wallpaper, skirting boards and cracks in the floor. They are wingless so they can?t fly or jump like the flea. They are active during the night and have been known to drop from ceilings onto beds. They can survive without a blood feed for up to a year. Bites can cause welts to appear on the skin with three rows of puncture marks being characteristic. Itchiness and irritation affect some people more than others. A nuisance pest, generally harmless.

PEST CONTROL: They are usually introduced in old mattresses or furniture, so inspect any recently brought into the premises. Inspect other harbourage areas, then lightly dust these areas. Spray all skirting boards and around furniture, especially around the bed. DO NOT SPRAY THE MATTRESS OR LINEN. Blankets and sheets should be stripped from the bed and washed in hot soapy water. Mattresses should either be discarded or left outside in the sun. Gassing with Pyrethrin should be carried out with any heavy infestations.

Call On Site Pest Control on 9788 6334 or email us at onsite.bigpond.com



Bees

Bees are most active during the warmer months of the year, from, early Spring to late Summer. They invade houses in order to establish new colonies and to shelter. Scout bees will fly around a building, looking for entry points. Usually these are holes in the mortar of brick walls, in ventilation holes (weep holes) and under tiles on roofs etc. They do not fly far from a previous colony and it is not unusual to see a swarm of bees settle onto a house in just a few seconds.

This is why bee jobs are considered to be an emergency as many people are allergic to their stings, some severely. They are not naturally aggressive except when defending an established hive. People normally get stung by bees when they step on, lean on or pick them off their clothing. Walking within their flight path can agitate them, as will fast and jerky movements near the hive.

PEST CONTROL: Just about any insecticide will kill bees as they are very susceptible to poisons. Dusts are the best method of eradication in an accessible position such as on a tree branch or under eaves. The best time of the day is either early morning or late afternoon. This is when they remain inactive inside the colony. Dusting in these times does not flush them out and it is rarely necessary to retreat. Treatment during sunny hours will not always destroy the entire colony, although the majority of the colony will die.

Call On Site Pest Control on 9788 6334 or email us at [email protected]


Bird Proofing

The purpose of bird proofing is to make roosting and nesting sites inaccessible to pest birds. They can gain entry in a number of places in a building such as:

a) under roof tiles
b) in valleys (the meeting point of two section of roof and used as a drain into the gutter)
c) under broken ridge-capping (cement ?cap? which goes over the tile edges)
d) drain pipe holes
e) chimneys
f) vents
or any other gaps which birds can squeeze into. This gap can be as small as a hole where you barely insert three fingers!

PEST CONTROL: The methods that may be used include bird wire, netting, pop riveting tin or aluminium plates, Avistrand (wire strung at a height just above roosting sites) and Bird-ex strips (plastic strips of one metre long and two centimetres wide with triangular points, usually glued to landing surfaces).

Call On Site Pest Solutions or email us at [email protected]

Bird Lice/Mites

Bird lice, or more correctly, mites are commonly associated with the Pigeon, Sparrow and Starling. They are a blood-sucking parasite of these pest birds and become a problem with people when they are unable to get food, once they are separated from their host. The three most common mites (Order Acarina) are the Starling mite, the Tropical Fowl mite and the Red Poultry mite. They are 0.5mm to 1mm in length and a greyish/yellow colour except after a feed when they turn red.

The pest birds build nests typically in eaves, bringing with them the mites. When they leave their nests permanently, get trapped in the wall cavities or die, the mites leave the nest in search of a new host. Their route of travel is usually down wall cavities and through ventilators into bedrooms. They attack humans leaving an itchy rash when can become a secondary infection after scratching. They can only survive two to three weeks without a feed from their usual host.

PEST CONTROL: Bird mites are controlled by dusting the nesting and roof void with Permethrin insecticidal dust. Wall cavities can also be dusted through the vents inside bedrooms. (Care must be taken not to apply too much dust into the gauze as it can shoot back inside the room.) The best method is to use a cockroach puffer directly against the gauze and puff lightly, making sure that this wire gauze is not dislodged. Remove as much nesting as is accessible and dust again. The interior may be gassed or misted with Pyrethrins. When misting it is important not to aim towards food preparation areas, electrical equipment or mirrors (they collect insecticide readily and fog up). Bird mites can also be blown in from open windows, so bird repellent gel or similar may need to be applied. No warranty is ever given on bird mite jobs unless proofing is also done by our company to stop more pest birds carrying mites entering the structure. The client must be made aware that it may take two or three days for all mites to contact the insecticide, even after proofing.

Call On Site Pest Control on 9788 6334 or email us at [email protected]



Borers

This section will only deal with the identification and treatment if necessary of the more common borers and identification of their damage. Further reading is recommended for a more overall knowledge of all the borer species.

Borers of trees, bark and moist timbers (Longicorns, Jewel beetles and Ambrosia beetles). These borers only attack timber in living trees or timbers with a high moisture content. They rarely attack timber-in-service. The Longicorns and Jewel beetles attack trees that have been damaged by fire or mechanical means and the larvae leave large oval holes when they emerge.

The frass (?saw-dust?) left by the Jewel beetles is more tightly packed than the Longicorns and they leave crescent shaped markings on the surface of their tunnels. Pin-hole borers have small round emergence holes with no frass. These holes are usually stained and carry through to the other side of the timber. They are almost always the borer damage that is seen in fence palings and antique furniture. They do not re-infest timber-in-service and therefore no treatment is required.

Borers of dry wood - Lyctus (Powder-post borer) and Anobium (Furniture beetle). Lyctus brunneus borers make small round holes in the sapwood of hardwoods (pored woods) only. Pine timbers (non-pored) timbers are considered to be immune from attack as the female has to lay her eggs by inserting her ovipositor into the tube-like pores. Only the edges of structural timbers are normally attacked as these timbers have less than 25% sapwood as a requirement of the NSW Timber Marketing Act. Any hardwood structural timbers that have become structurally unsound are illegal and can be reported to the Forestry Commission. No treatment is required other than replacement of adversely affected timber.

The frass can be described as flour-like when rubbed between the fingers and this separates it from the frass of Anobium, which is described as gritty.

Anobium punctatum (furniture beetle) also make small round holes like Lyctus borer, though they prefer pine (non-pored) timbers. The female lays her eggs in cracks and crevices of wood surfaces. They have been known to attack oregon and other pored timbers, but this is rare. The furniture beetle is most often encountered in pine flooring of timber that is over 15 years old. The main area attacked is the under surface of the timber and can be quite extensive. They can re-infest timbers, especially in poorly ventilated areas. The attack can be so severe as to cause collapse of the floor boards!

PEST CONTROL: In most cases of borer attack, the only treatment is to replace timbers which are structurally unsound. Furniture beetle attack may be controlled if in a small area only by injecting each hole with Perigen 500, a synthetic pyrethroid. Surface sprays have only a limited if any effect. All damage by furniture beetle must be considered active as the eggs have been known to hatch after 20 years.

Fumigation by Methyl Bromide of the structure after being wrapped in plastic sheeting is another method albeit an expensive one. This can cost over $5,000. Antiques may be treated either by the injection method mentioned above or inside a fumigation chamber. No guarantee is given however, as re-infestation can occur. This is because the fumigant has no residual properties. Antiques may also be placed in an industrial freezer for 3 days.

Call On Site Pest Control on 9788 6334 or email us at [email protected]



Carpet Beetles

There are two different species of Carpet Beetle which are fabric pests, the Variegated Carpet Beetle and the Black Carpet Beetle. It is only the larva of these species that feeds on fabrics such as woollen carpets (they do not attack synthetic carpets), fur, silk and feathers etc. The adults feed on pollen from flowers. Bringing fresh flowers into a building that contain the adult beetles is often the origin of the infestation.

They can fly and are attracted to light, often found clustered near windows. The larva eat small round holes in curtains, tapestry and clothes.

Variegated Carpet Beetle
Adult: A number of different patterns and colours, but in general between 2-3mm long with a mottled pattern of white, brown and yellow scales with fine long greyish-yellow scales underneath. A rounded shape. Lays 40 eggs maturing in 4 months.

Larva: At maturity 8mm long, tapering to the rear with long hairs. The larva is tapered with short tufts of hair at the front the widest and short tufts of hair at the rear cover the body.

Black Carpet Beetle
Adult: Is a black/brown colour with an oval shape with brownish legs, between 3-5mm long. Female very prolific, laying 50 to 100 eggs over 3 weeks and maturing in 1 year.
Larva: At maturity 4-5mm long with a series of light and dark brown stripes.

PEST CONTROL: Carpet Beetle are controlled by advising the client to thoroughly vacuum the carpet, paying attention to areas underneath furniture and close to skirting boards. The entire carpet area must be fan sprayed with a residual insecticide. Treat crack and crevices and skirting boards.

Call On Site Pest Control on 9788 6334 or email us at [email protected]



Cockroaches

There are five main pest species in Australia, all being introduced and forming less than 1% of all 450 species found in Australia. They comprise of: German, Smoky-brown, American, Australian and Brown-banded.

Their insect order is Blattodea and gave rise to the termites over 300 million years ago. A species of cockroaches called the ?Oriental Cockroach? (Blatta orientalis) was once a pest species, but is now so rarely encountered it will not be discussed further. They are regarded as pests because of a number of factors, some being their characteristic odour, reproductive abilities, contamination of food by their droppings and regurgitations and the spread of diseases.

Pest controllers are often asked by clients ?Aren?t cockroaches supposed to be one of the cleanest animals because of the grooming habits?? The obviously are not because of the habits of roaming through sewers, urinals, garbage and rubbish. They consume food and faeces of man and animals, harbouring diseases such as Salmonella, Diarrhoea and Typhus.

PEST SPECIES PROLIFERATION

a. German Cockroach (Blattela Germanica)
Life span of female adult 14-26 weeks
Incubation period of eggs in capsules 17-35 days
Number of offspring from one female Approx 20,000 per year
Description: Light tan to medium brown, two dark bands on pronotum, 10-15mm long.

b. Smoky-brown Cockroach (Periplaneta Fuliginosa)
Life span of female adult 23-43 weeks
Incubation period of eggs in capsules 35-70 days
Number of offspring from one female Approx 5,000 per year
Description: Entirely brownish to black, 10-13mm long.

c. American Cockroach (Periplaneta Americana)
Life span of female adult 15-84 weeks
Incubation period of eggs in capsules 29-58 days
Number of offspring from one female Approx 800 per year
Description: Reddish to chocolate brown, light yellow band on pronotum, 30-45mm long.

d. Australian Cockroach (Periplaneta Australiasiae)
Life span of female adult 17-26 weeks
Incubation period of eggs in capsules 32-40 days
Number of offspring from one female Approx 200 per year
Description: Reddish to brown, yellow marks on pronotum and wings, 30-35mm long.

PEST CONTROL: Inspection is a very important part of cockroach control. Ask the client if they have noticed any particular trouble areas, then inspect all known cockroach harbourage areas such as;

a) cracks and crevices in and around kitchen, bathroom and laundry and meal preparation sites if on a commercial building;
b) behind hot water services;
c) electrical appliances such as ovens, refrigerator motors, microwaves, stereos etc;
d) door hinges;
e) behind wallpaper or ply veneer boards;
f) drains and plumbing; and
g) roof voids.

Treat cracks and crevices in all of these areas and any other harbourages with insecticidal dusts to flush out the cockroaches and/or in conjunction with residual sprays such as Deltamethrin. If a non-fuming treatment is required, use dust only or a synthetic pyrethroid spray such as Cislin 10 or Bestox. Heavy infestations may require a misting or a gassing for a faster kill.
N.B. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE TREAT ANY FOOD PREPARATION AREAS, FOOD UTENSILS,CLOTHES, BEDDING, OR ANY OTHER AREAS NOT DESCRIBED ON THE PESTICIDE LABEL.

Call On Site Pest Control on 9788 6334 or email us at [email protected]



Fleas

There are approximately 70-80 species of fleas in Australia (Order Syphonaptera), the most common being the cat flea and the dog flea. They are 1-6mm in length and black or brown in colour. The cat flea is far the more common species, with the parasite being found upon both dogs and cats. People often refer to these as ?grass fleas? or ?sand fleas?. It is incorrect to assume that these fleas just live in the grass or sand. They are usually cat fleas that their pet has deposited on the ground. All fleas are blood-sucking parasites and they need a living host in order to survive.

Fleas are wingless insects with a laterally flattened body, hairy with hooks on their legs to move easily through and to grip onto the fur of their hosts. They have very powerful hind legs that have a rubber-like resilin in their joints. When they compress these legs and release them, they are catapulted into the air, by as much as 20cm up, and 35cm horizontally (150 time their own length!). That is comparable to a person jumping onto Ayres Rock.

A female flea can lay up to 25 eggs in a day and over 800 in a lifetime. The eggs hatch between five and fourteen days becoming larvae. These are blind and legless and feed upon organic matter such as dried blood from the host. After two to three weeks the larvae are fully grown, spin a silk cocoon and become pupae. When a stimulus in the form of vibration or heat is sensed, the pupa emerges as an adult. This can take from two to three weeks normally, or over a year to happen. This explains why people returning from holidays and entering their houses are attacked by large numbers of fleas. An adult flea can survive for over four months without a blood feed.

PEST CONTROL: Fleas are controlled by firstly ensuring that the host animal is regularly bathed in a residual flea shampoo or rinse such as ?Saint Bernard Flea Shampoo? or ?Permoxin?. These shampoos contain the insecticide Permethrin, which is a synthetic pyrethroid. There are other Organo-phosphate based shampoos and rinses such as ?Gamma-wash? and Mala-wash? (Diazinon and Maldison as active ingredient). These are residual insecticides, though they are smelly, a lot more toxic and fleas are becoming chemical resistant to them. Regular bathings in Summer are every two weeks to one months and less often in winter.

When bathing is not a regular occurrence or the animal is introduced to an environment where there is a current flea infestation, flea breeding can result. When fleas are laying eggs in the fur of the host, some fall off onto the ground or where the pets usually reside, carpet and bedding etc.

To gain effective control of fleas, the following preparations should be made:

a) All children and pets should be removed from the areas to be sprayed.
b) All loose items should be taken away from the floor and ground areas.
c) The lawns are to be mowed and dry areas to be hosed if it is a hot day (this is to float the flea eggs to the surface and to help keep the insecticide from evaporating too quickly).
d) A thorough vacuuming of the carpet just prior to treatment, paying attention to skirting board areas and underneath furniture and lounge cushions (this is where layers of dead skin and larva live). Vacuum bags to be sprayed with fly spray or discarded.
e) The subfloor area is to be blocked off from entry by pets. Pets and people to be kept away as much as possible from infested areas. This will have to be for at least one month in some cases.
f) Bedding of pets to be thoroughly washed or discarded.
g) In severe infestations an Insect Growth Regulator (IGR) may be used in tablet form which is added to the pets? food (this can be obtained on prescription from vets - trade name ?Programme?). Another method of control by using tablets is a systemic method of control - trade name ?Pro-ban?.
h) Finally the pet should be washed as soon as possible after the treatment with a residual flea rinse or shampoo, or in the case of cats, a residual flea powder. This should continue on a regular basis, preferably every two weeks in the warmer months to a monthly wash or powder in the cooler seasons.

The client should be made aware that they will get the best results of our treatment if these precautions are taken and flea control is gained only after two weeks to a month after treatment. This allows enough time for the adult fleas to contact the insecticide and die.

N.B. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE TREAT ANY FOOD PREPARATION AREAS, FOOD UTENSILS,CLOTHES, BEDDING, OR ANY OTHER AREAS NOT DESCRIBED ON THE PESTICIDE LABEL.

Call On Site Pest Control on 9788 6334 or email us at [email protected]



General Pests

General Pests are defined by Best Pest Control as being:

    • Common (large) cockroaches - American, Smoky-Brown and Australian
    • Ants 
    • Spiders - both webbing and ground dwelling spiders 
    • Silverfish 
    • Carpet Beetles

PEST CONTROL: A general pest treatment is a mostly standard treatment that is used by our company when clients move into a new house, get a regular preventative service or have a particular pest problem that fall into this category. It consists of dusting the roof void, behind refrigerator motors, cracks and crevices in the kitchen and bathroom. A spray is applied to the skirting boards, subfloor fences, eaves, footpaths, and perimeters of the house and outbuildings. Any other pest harbourage areas are also covered, using common sense.

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES ARE FOOD UTENSILS, FOOT PREPARATION AREAS OR ELECTRICAL ITEMS TO BE SPRAYED! Clients are to note that people and pets are to be kept away from the operator when he is applying the sprays as drift can fall onto them. Windows and doors are to be closed when spraying the exterior for the same reasons. No mess is to be left behind after treatment. All spills are to be cleaned up immediately after they occur.

All general pest treatments are given a free termite inspection as part of our service. The customer must be told three things at the completion of the treatment and inspection. These things are:

1. What was done and what was seen is very important to our client and they will listen very carefully to what is said to them in most cases because this is what they have just spent their hard earned money upon. Explain to them any areas of the property that had infestations or damage done to them, past or present. Any other conditions that may become conducive to future attack may also be reported, as well as all areas that you have treated.

2. Most clients like a yearly reminder, though others would prefer longer or shorter periods between treatments. Try to note any errors or omissions that appear on the work sheets.

3. They will get the best result after approximately two weeks after treatment. If they get any problems after this period, just contact the office during business hours for a free re-treatment at any time during their warranty period.

Call On Site Pest Control on 9788 6334 or email us at [email protected]

German Cockroaches

German Cockroaches are the world?s most successful and prolific cockroaches because of their extremely fast breeding habits and ability to adapt to almost any environment. They will eat anything that humans do and will also eat wallpaper, curtains, leather and nay other organic material. They are always found indoors and tend to stay where food and water are freely available, such as kitchens, pantries and bathrooms etc. They cannot fly and carry their egg capsules (Ootheca) until maturity, unlike other pest species.

The adults are 10-15mm long and are tan to medium brown in colour with two parallel dark stripes on the head section (Pronotum). The nymphs are very small, dark and beetle-like when they first emerge from the capsule and within a few weeks grow more slender and lighter in colour. They have a light strip down the centre at this stage of their development. Signs of infestation include cast skins, dark regurgitation and faecal droppings in corners and door hinges of cupboards. Their droppings are tiny and resemble flyspecks. They are often confused with the brown-banded cockroach which is lighter in colour, lives outdoors or indoors in dry environments and can fly.

One of the most important factors in German Cockroach control is a thorough inspection before commencing any treatment. Ask the client where the main problem areas are and inspect these areas first. Use a torch to inspect up under cupboards (pull out the drawers if this hasn?t been prepared by the client). Have a rega hand pup ready for action as the cockroaches will soon run for cover once they are disturbed.

Shopping bags and papers that are found in kitchen drawers are a favourite hiding place for these cockroaches, as are any cracks or crevices and placed where they can squeeze into. They like to stay near any warn areas such as behind hot water services, electrical motors of refrigerators, stoves etc. Look behind wallpaper, door hinges and inside microwave oven clocks - they enjoy the heat as these aren?t normally turned off.

In very heavy infestations where daytime activity is sighted, it may be necessary to drill skirting boards under kitchen cupboards. Water beds are another favourite nesting place between the folds of the mattress and in crevices of the timber.

PEST CONTROL: Hygiene is extremely important if a permanent solution is to be gained. Physical control is gained by:

Daily cleaning of all food from surfaces and dirty dishes not being left overnight.
Blocking all likely harbourage areas with a caulking gun or similar.
Removal of stacked paper, cardboard boxes and drink containers etc.
Swatting, vacuuming or laying of sticky baits and crushing egg capsules.

Treat all likely harbourage areas by lightly dusting with the cockroach duster and spraying edges of cupboards and skirtings with the rega hand pump. For heavy infestations only, mist or gas interiors, paying attention not to mist towards mirrors, food preparation areas, bedding or any other areas that may stain or become affected.

For all heavy to medium infestations, leave sticky baits in areas of highest population after information the client of their whereabouts and use - they are used to catch adults, nymphs and egg capsules without spreading further infestation.

N.B. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE TREAT ANY FOOD PREPARATION AREAS, FOOD UTENSILS,CLOTHES, BEDDING, OR ANY OTHER AREAS NOT DESCRIBED ON THE PESTICIDE LABEL.

Call On Site Pest Control on 9788 6334 or email us at [email protected]



Grubs

Grubs and caterpillars are more of a nuisance pest which can annoy or perhaps frighten people. There is a large number of species which I will not attempt to describe as it is of casual interest only.

PEST CONTROL: The best method of control is by physical removal or by quashing them with a boot or similar. Inspect areas around trees plants and fences. As these pests are not described on any of our general pesticide labels, spraying is not an option. Agricultural insectides which are registered for each species of grub may only be recommended (Organo-phoshates are amongst these).

Call On Site Pest Control on 9788 6334 or email us at [email protected]



Maggots

Maggots are a the larva of winged insects, especially houseflies and blowflies. They are hatched from eggs which are usually laid on rotting meat or faeces. They have a putrid odour and disgust most people. Maggot infestation may often become noticeable after baiting for rodents, or unwrapped meat laying in garbage bins.

PEST CONTROL: Control is achieved in most circumstances by removal of carcasses or faeces and disposing in a suitable manner. Most registered insectides will kill maggots as they are soft bodied, although once the area is cleared of maggots and their food supply, nothing more is needed to hurry their departure. Disinfectant and deodorant are recommended options.

Call On Site Pest Control on 9788 6334 or email us at [email protected]


Mice


Man creates the ideal environment for rats and mice by providing a constant source of food, water and harborage. Rodent control is necessary and desirable because;

rodents spread disease either through direct contact or as a vector for another organism.

rodents cause extensive structural damage with their constant gnawing and

rodents damage contaminate foodstuffs before and after harvest by consumption, gnawing and contamination with their urine, faeces and hair follicles.

PEST CONTROL: Five steps for effective IPM rodent control are;

Inspection
Identification
Sanitation
Rodent Proofing
Baiting and Trapping

1. Inspection
Premises should be inspected using a torch, notepad to note the layout and point out problem areas. A person familiar with the rodent problem should be consulted to show sightings of droppings, food contamination, gnawing, or other evidence of rodent activity such as smudge marks from their oily hair.

Particular attention should be given to areas where there is food, water and harborage.

2. Identification
Apart from sightings of live or dead rodents, identification can be made by examining their droppings.

Norway Rat Roof Rat House Mouse Cockroaches
Blunt, 20mm Pointed, 16mm Pointed, 8mm Blunt, 5mm with ridges

3. Sanitation
Before disturbing the rodents? habitat, knock down the initial infestation. Garbage, food or feed should be stored in sealed containers. Spilled food and garbage should be cleaned up regularly. Outside debris and vegetation should be cleared at least one metre around buildings, as it provides essential harborage.

4. Rodent Proofing
Doors, windows, screens and cracked concrete are easy access for rodents. Look for openings near the top of buildings such as roof vents, eaves, overhangs and roof top air conditioning units. Drainpipes need a screen on the bottom as well as the top.

RODENT PROOFING MATERIALS:

Hardware cloth- 19 gauge or heavier
Perforated Metal- 24 gauge
Sheet Metal (galvanised)-26 gauge or heavier
Cement Mortar- 1:3 mixture or richer

5. Baiting and Trapping
A successful rodent control programme will combine proofing, baiting and trapping to achieve the highest rate of success. Determine the severity of the infestation before baiting to ensure the right amount of bait is used ACCORDING TO THE LABEL. Daytime sightings particularly of rats, is an indication of high numbers of rodents. Burrow baiting is the fastest way to get rats to take the bait.

EXTERIOR BAITING
Tamper-resistant bait stations using wax blocks are best placed every 10-15 metres around the perimeter of the building. Place these where children or pets cannot access them.

INTERIOR BAITING
Place tamper-resistant baits along walls, in corners, under pallets, appliances and other tight areas.

ADHESIVES
Glue boards are a usedful tool for monitoring and capturing rodents without using poisons. Place boards along runways between the rodents? harborage and feeding areas. Factors that limit the effectiveness of glue boards are dust, moisture, grease and dirt. Rodents pick up these materials on their foot pads and the boards become ineffective.

Call On Site Pest Control on 9788 6334 or email us at [email protected]



Silverfish

Silverfish are a fabric pest which can eat non-synthetic clothing such as cotton and wool. They also eat paper (especially glossy paper as found in magazines and bookcovers) and glue. Silverfish are found in cracks and crevices in and around bookshelves, linen presses and wardrobes.

PEST CONTROL: Silverfish are controlled by lightly dusting cracks and crevices with insecticidal dusts such as Coopex Insecticidal Dust and spraying along carpet edges, inside wardrobes and skirtings, ACCORDING TO THE LABEL.

Call On Site Pest Control on 9788 6334 or email us at [email protected]



Spiders

Biology: All spiders belong to the class Arachnida, have eight legs and two body sections; the cephalothorax and abdomen. The cephalothorax is a combination of a head and thorax found in insects. Palps (sensory organs) and fangs are at the front of the body.

Sexual Identification: The easiest features to identify spiders of the same species is the difference in body size. The male is usually much smaller, with slender body and longer legs and palps. The males do not usually spin webs except for mating purposes.

Respiration: Spiders breath through tiny holes in the sides of their bodies (Spiracles) and/or lung books. These allow air to be taken in and conveyed through small tubes directly to internal organs. Always seen on the ventral surface of the abdomen, lung-books can be seen on the Sydney Funnelweb spider as prominent orange-red plates behind the junction of the legs with the body.

Senses: Most spiders have three or four pairs of eyes, on the top and sides of the Cephalothorax. Each eye is a simple lens. The arrangement of the eye patterns makes an identification process for families and genera. The bodies of spiders and other arachnids are covered with spines used for touch and taste. They can even hear through spines on their legs!

Reproduction: Courtship of spiders is usually protracted, mostly by the male. This involves gently stroking the female with his pedipalps when in close range. Web spinning spiders drum on the threads of the web, as in a serenade. The female spider seems to be intoxicated by all this attention and becomes inactive.

The male reproductive organ is located in the pedipalpi and conveys seminal fluid to the spermatheca of the female. After fertilization, the male is often caught and eaten by the female, ensuring that she is well nourished and a caring mother.

Life Cycle: The egg sac of the fertilized female spider is a round tough mass of silken threads enclosing hundreds of eggs. The eggs hatch inside the egg sac and the young spiders (spiderlings) moult before they emerge. Once emerged they are dispersed by ballooning in the air by producing a thread which is carried by the wind. They go through a succession of moults until they reach adulthood. Any limbs that are lost during moulting or fights with other spiders are replaced by new ones.

Their life cycle is usually less than 12 months for webbing spiders, but some ground-dwelling spiders may have a life cycle of many years.

PEST CONTROL:
Spiders are controlled mainly by a thorough inspection, followed by directly spraying spiders seen with any of the registered insecticides. Always advise the client to keep webs up before and after the treatment as residual treatment of the webs are crucial to effective spider control. When treating, pay particular attention to eaves, around windows, fences, paths, rockeries and all other spider habitats. Caution! When treating fences or eaves, strict attention must be paid to keeping spray drift to a minimum. DO NOT SPRAY EAVES OR OTHER AREAS ABOVE WAIST HEIGHT IN WINDY CONDITIONS. Always check both sides of fences for people, pets or other non-target objects before spraying.

Dangerous Spiders: There are nine Australian Spiders whose venom ranges from extremely toxic to resulting in painful bites. Common sense and awareness will safeguard most people from the danger of attack. These spiders are as listed below;

1. SYDNEY FUNNELWEB-(MALE) The most dangerous spider in the world is the male Sydney Funnel Web. It has killed three children in under two hours. This spider is quickly identified by a glossy black body with long spinnerets. An aggressive spider which rears up when challenged. His venom is seven times as toxic as the female, yet is dangerous only to primates. Secondary identification is a pointed spur on each second leg and reddish black undersides.

2. SYDNEY FUNNELWEB-(FEMALE) Similar in appearance with a stockier body than the male. Lives in web-lined retreats in moist, cool locations. The female although less toxic than the male, has caused fatalities, mainly amongst the young, old and sick population.

3. RED-BACK This spider has a pea-shaped abdomen with a characteristic red or orange stripe. The male is much smaller and harmless. Makes untidy webs around rubbish and pot plants. Poison is much slower acting than the Funnel Web and bites causes severe pain with localised sweating. Is related to the Black Widow spider of the U.S.A. and the Katipo of New Zealand. Around 300 spider bites are recorded every year from the Red-Back with seven fatalities attributed.

4. MOUSE SPIDER Females often mistaken for Funnelwebs. Large glossy black bodied spider, with the male having a red forepart of the cephalothorax. Female lives in holes with double doors in the ground. Has blunted spinnerets and strong jaws. Toxic and painful bite.

5. WHITE TAILED SPIDER A small dark brown spider with a characteristic white spot on the end of the abdomen. Usually encountered inside houses sheltering from the weather or introduced on clothing brought in from the clothes line. Bite is not usually painful, though may become very painful at a later stage. Ulcers may develop to a stage where necrosis of the skin occurs.

6. BLACK HOUSE SPIDER Both sexes are dark brown to grey/black with body markings. Builds webs in dark corners of windows, verandahs, sheds or fences. Bite very painful with severe vomiting and nausea resulting. No fatalities recorded.

7. WOLF SPIDER Mottled grey and brown body with Union Jack appearance on cephalothorax. Carries young on its back. Makes web-lined holes in the ground. Moves rapidly when disturbed. Bite may be toxic and painful for a short while. Ulcers from bite suspected of developing necrosis of skin.

8. BROWN TRAPDOOR Brown to dark brown covered with fine hairs. Leggy spider with male having ?Boxing glove? palps. Does not usually leave lid over hole. Painful bite.

9. HUNTSMAN Grey to brown spider with large very leggy body. Lives under bark during day and emerges during night. Walks sideways on occasion. Non-toxic and rarely bites. Is known to hide under sun-visors in cars.

Call On Site Pest Control on 9788 6334 or email us at [email protected]


Wasps

Wasp and hornet control is essential when they have large populations near your living areas. Why are they a pest? If you invade their space they will attack you and sting repeatedly, unlike bees which can only sting once. For controlling infestations, please read carefully through this article and do not try to control them yourself. Be sure to read all of it before you call a pest control company. Call in an expert with the right protection and equipment for the safest treatment of wasps.

Information about yellow jackets, bees, digger wasps, cicada killers is not dealt with here as this is a general overview of wasp control.

As summer goes by, wasps and hornets will prosper. By September, their nests have matured. If you see them in your flowers, garbage or picnic areas there is probably a nest close by. Although many wasps exist in Australia and North America, the two species most common are Bald Faced Hornets and Paper Wasps. This article applies to these and other common wasps. However, Yellow Jackets, Cicada Killers, Digger Wasps and Mud Daubers have their own information and pest control treatments.

Bald Faced hornets are actually wasps. They are black with white or yellow stripes around their thorax and abdomen. They're about one inch long, can fly very fast and are aggressive. Bald faced hornets create a nest which is grey and round. It ranges from softball to beach ball size. These nests are made from cellulose and are quite strong. Likely nest sights include trees, shrubs and around overhangs of buildings.

Paper wasps vary in color. Some are black and yellow, black and red, or brown and red. They build nests in the same places as bald faced hornets. These nests are usually smaller in size and population. Many times these nests are in cracks of wood and cannot be seen. Here the wasp will nest in between siding, insulation and any other void they can find underneath soffits, around gutters and windows. Paper wasps do not fly as fast as bald faced hornets and are generally not as aggressive. If activity is high, just watch from a distance and chances are you will quickly locate where the main nest sight is located. Paper wasps are also very curious. It is quite common to find them flying around people since they are attracted to moisture and sweet odours. They will readily fly toward sweat, perfume, food, flowers, dead insects and other things commonly found around the home. In fact, they can become quite a pest - even if you are just trying to sit out on your deck or around the pool! A handy way to deal with them when they are in close proximity is with pyrethrin spray, which is effective for all types of insects like mosquitoes, flies and spiders but is particularly effective on wasps. Simply spray at a safe distance during the late afternoon and it will instantly die! This is quite effective and since you don't actually "swat" the target, there is no mess! If you are finding the wasps inside the home, a vacuum cleaner may be the better option. It enables you to suck off the wasp on walls or ceilings and then you can vacuum them into the bag. Spray a little low toxic pyrethrin based insecticide inside first if you want to kill them. Release them outside if you want them to live after emptying carefully. The vacuum cleaner provides a clean way to remove most unwanted pests. Of course, these only offer immediate relief and won't be a long term resolution, but it will allow you to go about your business without the worry of someone getting stung or the mess of a smashed bug on the wall! If you have a pool or other body of water close by which is always attracting wasps, treatment options will be limited. This is because the wasps you are seeing aren't necessarily nesting on your property. Wasps need water and lots of it. They will forage great distances to find water. In arid environments, this could be several miles. If where you reside has been hot or dry and you have a bird bath, a pool or some other water supply, expect wasps to find your "offering". As the moisture evaporates into the air, wasps and other insects will detect it's presence. This will attract them to the area and once found, "word" will be out on the street. In other words, expect more and more of the local population of wasps and bees to come around. Dealing with such invasions is extremely difficult but there are options. The best way is to directly treat any known nests. However, in most of these situations, the nest is not around nor is it easy to find. For such situations, a broad "shotgun" technique must be employed and should involve three types of "repellents". First, the strongest treatment is the use of an aerosol based Pyrethrin Most any insect hates Pyrethrin and wasps cannot stand it. They will avoid any area where pyrethrin is detected. Pyrethrin occurs naturally and in fact is the exact defense mechanism many plants use to keep destructive pests away. Aerosol forms of pyrethrin are particularly irritating to wasps, flies and other flying insects because of the way they breathe. Mist plants, ground cover, rocks, mulch and basically any areas you see wasp activity where you want them gone. Keep in mind that treatments won't last long; you may need to apply some once or twice a day if you intend on keeping an area wasp free all the time. However, Pyrethrin is very safe to use around people and pets and poses no hazard. This means you can reapply it as needed. Since it comes in a can and is ready to spray, treatments are easy and take no time. Another repellent that we have found works on them is the mosquito coil. The original type burning coil used citronella as the active. A new formulation uses Synthetic Pyrethrin and is extremely effective at keeping unwanted mosquitoes, wasps and flies away. They detect the repellent and stay clear or else they will die from inhaling it. Set these out around the areas you want to keep wasp free. Additionally, the use of some INSECT INCENSE will help. They are all natural, slow burning and the combination of carbon monoxide and odour will help to chase away wasps and other nuisance pests. They smell great too! If you have found a nest and have decided to treat the problem yourself, you will have to decide what material will be best suited for the task. There are many options available including wasp freeze, liquids and dust formulations. All offer advantages and disadvantages; some will be better suited for the job at hand while in some cases, any type of product may work. Most importantly, you must be able to both reach and treat the nest adequately to insure you destroy it completely. Failure to do so will create a hazardous situation.

Wasps which have had their homes partially destroyed will become angry and aggressive. They will remain this way for days. To insure you do the job right the first time, make sure you can attack it from a good position without risk of getting stung. This could mean climbing a ladder, walking out on a roof or scaling a tree. Many of these locations will leave you vulnerable and the last thing you want to have happen is to be stung by a nest of angry wasps while atop a 25 foot ladder. To insure your safety, a BEE VEIL, BEE HAT, BEE GLOVES and BEE SUIT may be needed. This equipment will prevent stings and enable you to go about your task with confidence and conviction. Good protection is worth the investment - particularly if you are dealing with European Wasps! Treatment of either nest should be done at dusk or night. There are two reasons for this:

It insures that all the wasps are in the nest and

Risk of being stung is minimized. For small paper wasp nests, pyrethrin spray is quick and easy to use. It delivers a chemical which knocks down and kills most wasps on contact. It sprays ten to fifteen feet so it allows you to reach high places without a ladder. And because it sprays so fast, you must be careful not to waste it all. Treatments with pyrethrin should allow for immediate removal of the
nest. If the nest is unusually high or large, you may need to use a pest control technician.

Wasps and bees can be a painful nuisance in the summer. Keep your yards free of their nests to insure your family is [email protected]